Hello, Open Thread. I am back! Sort of. Thanks to my colleague Callie Holtermann, who kept this newsletter going when I was off getting 13 screws and a steel plate put in my arm. Talk about accessorizing. Happily, I recovered my ability to type just in time for the Met Gala and its dandy-inspired fashion. Expectations were high for this one, in part because the whole subtext of the Black dandy, the subject of the exhibition the party celebrates, is about the history of self-expression and assertion through clothing. That, combined with a dress code that focused on tailoring, seemed to open the door to a really creative use of past references and personal style, rather than the usual cosplay. And there was, indeed, some of that. I loved Diana Ross’s 18-foot marabou-trimmed train embroidered with the names of her children and grandchildren worn over a simple slip dress, and Lauryn Hill’s butter yellow double-breasted Stella McCartney suit with an almost Elizabethan collared cape, maroon tie and sky blue Hermès bag. Also the playwright Jeremy O. Harris, who collaborated with Balmain to recreate a look from a portrait in the show. And the Wales Bonner looks on Lewis Hamilton and FKA twigs, which were, as is the designer’s signature, layered with meaning and steeped in intention. But there were also a lot of surprises — not all of them good. First, I was surprised at how many people seemed to interpret the dress code in such a banal way. There was an overwhelming number of pinstripes, hats and canes, and Josephine Baker hair. The color palette was mostly black, white and red, with a bit of mustard yellow thrown in. As Miranda Priestley might say, “groundbreaking.” The fact that Zendaya (in Louis Vuitton), Anna Sawai (in Dior) and Madonna (in Tom Ford) all had pretty much the same idea — or at least their stylists did — kind of says it all. It was almost the opposite of flamboyant, which seems a missed opportunity. Otherwise the brands that dominated the red carpet included Thom Browne (about 11 looks) and Louis Vuitton (about 14). No shock with the latter, since the Vuitton men’s wear designer Pharrell Williams was a co-chair of the gala and the brand was a sponsor, though the women’s looks he designed did not lead me to think he has a future in women’s wear. His big idea, on Sabrina Carpenter; his wife, Helen Lasichanh; and Lisa from Blackpink, seemed to be: no pants! Which, let me tell you, is not an idea. What was a surprise, though, was that Bernard Arnault, the chairman of LVMH, which owns Vuitton, was not there — but showed up the next day in Washington, D.C., with his son Alexandre (who also skipped the Met) to attend a FIFA event at the White House and then have a private meeting with President Trump. Both Arnaults, as you may recall, were at the inauguration. Anyway, it seemed a pretty pointed political choice, since it would have been awfully easy — convenient even! — to attend a party supporting his industry in New York on Monday night and then pop down to D.C. on Tuesday. So the fact that the Arnaults didn’t go to the Met to celebrate the first show devoted to designers of color — at a time when programming around race has been practically declared illegal by executive order — but then did go to meet President Trump, presumably to argue the case against tariffs on luxury goods, was telling. We’ll see what, if anything, comes out of it. For more on the tricky politics of this particular Met, I have this story. Also a surprise: Besides Thom Browne and Vuitton, both of which have powerful and wealthy parent companies, the two most-represented brands were independent Black-owned names: Fear of God (12 looks) and Sergio Hudson. Fear of God doesn’t traditionally make women’s wear — or didn’t until now — so the fact that the designer Jerry Lorenzo dressed Yara Shahidi and Amy Sherald, among others, was a statement about where this brand is going. Mr. Hudson dressed a whopping 16 different women. Given that most celebrities get their dresses free, that seemed like an awful lot of expense for a newish indie brand to bear, even assuming that some of the businesswomen who wore his clothes, like Jamie Soros and Stephanie Horton, actually paid for their dresses. But given that Mr. Hudson doesn’t do any traditional advertising, celebrities, with their eye-boggling social media followings, are his billboards, and events like the Met his Super Bowl ad. Clearly, he thought the investment was worth it. And speaking of brands: Lacoste and Moncler made their Met Gala debuts, Moncler with a new collab with the former British Vogue editor Edward Enninful, who is about to introduce a new magazine. Neither entirely convinced me that red carpets were in their future, but I respect them for trying. Finally, my last big surprise: how little impact the Kardashians had. Kim K., who arrived in Chrome Hearts leather, and Kylie Jenner in a Ferragamo corset, barely merited a mention in most recaps. Does that signal that we have reached peak Kardashian and they are now on the fade? I’d never count out the family’s ability to secure the spotlight, but …. Anyway, for anyone who missed it, check out all the pics, and all the stories, including the inside scoop on the money involved, Kamala Harris’s surprise appearance (she skipped the red carpet) and the biggest star who showed up. (Arguably, it wasn’t Rihanna.) But if you are really Met Gala-ed out, take a breather by ogling the hats at the Kentucky Derby, and consider the latest Miu Miu show, which isn’t at all what you might think. Have a good, safe weekend.
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Your Style Questions, AnsweredEvery week on Open Thread, Vanessa will answer a reader’s fashion-related question, which you can send to her anytime via email or X. Questions are edited and condensed.
My style can be described as modern minimalist meets classic. I own several sheath dresses that fit and flatter, but when I put them on now, they echo what I see as MAGA style. How can I restyle them without sacrificing my aesthetic? — Miriam, Whidbey Island, Wash.There is a very specific look associated with women who subscribe to the Trump worldview, one that is sort of a cross between a Fox newscaster and Miss Universe. It generally involves flowing tresses that are at least shoulder length, false eyelashes, plumped-up cheeks and lips, high heels and, as you say, a sheath dress. The effect underscores an almost cartoonish femininity that speaks to a relatively old-fashioned gender stereotype; the counterpart to this woman is the square-jawed, besuited guy with a side part. Simply consider the women of the Trump family, who embody the standard: Melania, Ivanka, Lara and Tiffany, as well as Don Jr.’s new girlfriend, Bettina Anderson, and his former fiancée, Kimberly Guilfoyle. Also Kristi Noem, the homeland security secretary, and the former Trump defense lawyer Alina Habba. Indeed, I think one reason people are so fascinated by Usha Vance is that, with her willingness to let her hair go gray and her seeming aversion to makeup, she has become the exception that proves the rule. In any case, the Trump-approved lady look has stayed so consistent that it has effectively infiltrated everyone’s cerebellum, and we now have an almost Pavlovian reaction to seeing anyone with flowing hair and false eyelashes and lip plumper in a sheath dress. But here’s the thing: Of all the visual cues on that list, the sheath dress is the least important. The look of Trump world is increasingly about the beauty choices, more than the clothes. You can see this with Attorney General Pam Bondi, who favors pantsuits, and the White House press secretary Karoline Leavitt, who seems to vacillate between suits and sheath dresses. No matter what they wear, however, they are never anything but a Trump woman, even before they get to policy. There is actually a name for how they look: “Mar-a-Lago face,” after the Trump golf club that is home to so many of those sporting the look. Which also involves “conservative girl makeup.” And that is good news for anybody who doesn’t want to wear their politics on their sleeve. If you favor a sheath dress but want to avoid its political associations, just think of it as a base layer and consider how you accessorize it. Part of the essential appeal of the sheath dress — the reason it is such a wardrobe basic — is its very simplicity. A sheath dress is easy to wear and can take you from work to cocktails exactly because it is plain enough to … well, fit in many different situations. First, think about color. Red, white and blue have become the palette of the current administration, with pink and other classically “girlie” shades as a fallback. Instead, opt for black or other tones that suggest different associations (goth, minimalist, intellectual, rebel). Keep your hair natural or messy. Keep your makeup minimal and your heels low. Maybe wear boots or even flats or sneakers instead of pumps; if you want height, go blocky or platform rather than stiletto. The point is to look like an individual, complete with idiosyncrasies and attitude, rather than an A.I.-generated member of a crowd. |
